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Glimpses of the Coast
FORT
BRAGG
is the only sizable town along the Mendocino Coast (more than
6300 population.) It’s great for folks who want convenience
to everything. That’s everything except big box monopolies
and gambling casinos. You can walk to the beach, to the Skunk
Train Depot, and to Laurel Street to shop or mix at
a San Francisco style Headlands
Cafe with live jazz. Fort Bragg has an excellent 49-bed
hospital, a lively Senior
Center, public transportation, four movie theaters and three
live theaters, and so many locally sponsored fairs and annual
celebrations, you’ll plan to miss some of them. It’s
easy to connect in a small town like this, fun to run into
people
you know, and vital to have privacy when you want that.
The Highway widens at CLEONE,
three miles north of Fort Bragg, but it’s not just a wide
spot in the road. It’s the entrance to Mackerricker (Mi-CARE-i-ker)
State Park, with acres of camp sites, a fresh water lake, miles
of Old Haul Road (an oceanfront hiking and biking trail), a
country store with a gas pump and a campground, a popular Mexican
restaurant called “The Purple Rose”, and the Ricochet
Ranch horseback riding stables. There’s also a charming
inn, the Cleone Gardens,
with tubs and nine rooms. Cleone
claims to be a banana belt, sheltered from ocean winds by an
inland curve of the coastline; it runs north a couple of miles,
through Inglenook with its mysterious fen to Ten Mile River.
They say that this area is a little warmer and gets more sunshine.
It may produce the most wild rhododendrons and best fuchsias
on the coast. For sure, it’s a great place for kids.
WESTPORT lies
about ten miles further to the north of Fort Bragg and has more
of a New England flavor. It, too, is an old lumber town, a seaside
village still offering the basic necessities for locals who
want to live away from it all, and a sandy beach, shops, and
B & B’s for tourists who want to get away from it
all for awhile. The winding drive up to Westport on Highway
1 offers unsurpassed views of white water activity in every
conceivable coastal terrain. It is motorcycle heaven, this coastline.
In the hamlet itself, you’ll find mostly cute little,
beach houses (none under $300,000) and learn that they are surrounded
on three sides by larger parcels of land—10, 20, 80 acres
with huge houses and million dollar price tags.
CASPAR lies
three miles south of Fort Bragg, half way to Mendocino, and
is a growing phenomenon—becoming famous—almost.
This is a self-made community with a palpable spirit and long-term,
mile-high goals of resisting change. The diversity of the participants
in the active and friendly Caspar community is almost eerie.
What brings them together? Oceanfront dwellers, retirees, artists,
aging “hippies” and young couples with kids? Once
a sizable lumber town, “downtown” Caspar is now
so small as to appear abandoned, but so alive that it’s
been featured in TV films and newsprint as far away as New York
City. No conveniences here yet, just the Caspar Inn, a block
of post office boxes, a thriving Community Center, and a shul
for the Jewish community of maybe 300 around Mendocino. The
momentum in Caspar continues to climb; it’s the spirit
of it that seems to suck people in—to share in a unique
goal of survival and setting an example in an ever-changing
world.
Everywhere the Mendocino
Coast is a gardener’s paradise, with flowers in
bloom every day of every month of every year. |
MENDOCINO,
the invincible and incomparable jewel of the Coast, poses like
the supermodel she is on a 300-acre peninsula above the unpredictable,
blue Pacific. Owning property in Mendocino Village is like having
a 17th century antique to show off and pamper but living in
the Village is not for everyone. Mendocino is so special that
you’ll recognize some of the views from TV and movies,
feel the excitement, happily pay the price for an unforgettable
pastry, meal, or night’s sleep and, whatever you do in
Mendocino, you may have to elbow your way to do it. An exceedingly
popular and romantic art colony, it’s more than unique—from
the collapsing old buildings and still necessary water-towers,
to the elegant restaurants, galleries, goldsmiths, and custom
clothiers, Mendocino has it all. It’s so small that you
wouldn’t need a car to live here year ‘round but
don’t forget your checkbook.
LITTLE RIVER lies
just two miles south of the town of Mendocino on a gorgeous
stretch of ocean bluff. It offers the Coast’s only golf
course, a landing strip for your private plane, and a couple
of great eating places—the Little River Inn and the Edge
of the Earth. There is a post office and one other business,
a Highway One pull out with gas, groceries, wine and beer, and
a darned good deli. Take a few minutes for a quick bite and
enjoy the ocean view. Little River is so beautiful that you
can’t count the lodging facilities in and around it. Very,
very many. It’s also the entrance to Van Damm State Park
and a campground right on the beach. A popular mobile home,
retirement community known as “The Woods” is about
three miles inland from Little River. The Woods provides many
amenities for folks over 55, offers reasonable home-ownership,
and even has some assisted living units.
ALBION
is now a post office and hardware/grocery store about seven
miles below Mendocino, just across the dramatic bridge that
spans the Albion River. This area boasts a couple of the finest
restaurants anywhere, the Ledford House and the Albion River
Inn. From here Albion Ridge Road goes back inland a few miles
and has crossroads leading to countless country homes on an
acre or more of land. This is the first stop on the coast after
ascending the Anderson Valley on Highway 128 from Cloverdale,
via Boonville, Philo and Navarro, through colorful wine country
and miles of dense redwood groves,. If you have taken the other
scenic route, on Highway One through Gualala and Point Arena,
you entered our “territory” (the area covered by
our local Multiple Listing Service and CMAR) through Manchester,
Irish Beach and Elk.
ELK can
only be described as a Story-Book kind of Village. It so charming,
so cute, so beautifully groomed, planted and pampered and yet,
it is a real town. It has just about everything. People drive
miles to spend a day in Elk because there’s something
about it that makes you feel like you’re on vacation.
It’s fun. Real estate is at a premium here, of course,
just like around Mendocino and anywhere else along the coast
with an ocean view or ocean access. Elk is surrounded by undeveloped
land, huge parcels of land, sometimes they even include oceanfront
bluffs.
Everywhere the Mendocino Coast is a gardener’s
paradise, with flowers in bloom every day of every month of
every year. Year ‘rounders who can afford it may schedule
a long vacation to some sunny haven, like Mexico or the Arizona
desert, sometime after the winter holidays. We need the rain
but it can become a bit much about the first of February. If
your life depends upon it, it might be a good idea to invest
in a generator before your first winter here. In spite of what
has just been written, you don’t actually need a raincoat.
I gave mine away after a couple of years here. Had better use
for my closet space. |